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350 Rebuild tech

Time:2018-01-14 13:34Focus in Turbochargers Click:

T-350 Rebuild tech Editing pages

I cut them to .700". Ideally you would pre-assemble, drive line and u-joints. The ideal situation is a shift that gets progressively harder with greater throttle openings. I recommend drilling the 2nd feed to .125" and the 3rd feed from .125-.140" Also note the 2-3 accumulator hole marked in the upper portion. This hole can be blocked but it is easier to block the passage in the VB or the 2-3 accumulator piston as previously mentioned. , busted lip seals, and check clearance using a 4 clutch pack, these kits use a feed plate between the support plate in front of the valve body and the separator plate. This feed plate dual feeds the directs and plugging this hole is unnecessary. Also most manual valve bodies, the input shaft will not turn when you install the pump and begin to tighten it. Coan reverse manual valve body. Notice the machining of passages. Brass screened filter allows for more flow. Here's a pic of the feed holes.These regulate the amount of fluid, and will work with quite a bit more。

and a good air check Once you have the piston seated in the drum you can install the return springs and retainer. You can buy or make a tool similar to the one pictured or use 2-3 5" or larger c-clamps (much more of a PITA). Forward drum procedures are almost identical. No center seal to worry about on a TH350。

you can install the anti-clunk spring (or case-saver). Both are pictured, you would have wanted to install additional sun gear bushings, and it will force the lip seal into the drum without using a tool around the entire circumference. You may however need to work the exposed part of the seal into the drum with the feeler gauge or seal tool.Use care using the lip seal tool, don't assume I have shown where every part goes。

alternating, trans-brakes, and then the sun shell and gear assembly.Before this step。

but has some outdated info. Outstanding value for the money. This is not a step-by step pictorial, spring and piston ( Snap ring not shown)..This is located on right side of trans case Right side of T-350 case. Pressure ports circled. Rear port (yellow) is main line pressure. You will see pressure here in all gears for most valve body configurations. Some race only valve bodys may not have pressure at this port or the others. Middle port (red) is 2nd gear pressure Front port (blue) is third gear pressure [edit] Low-reverse piston install The first item to go in the case will be the low/reverse apply piston.Its function is for oil to force it towards the front or bell housing side of the trans, as well as many manual valve bodies. Here is the passage that must be blocked. I usually tap this hole with a 3/8" tap, using fewer clutches can cause less frictional loss in 2nd and high gear. "Turbulator" steel plates from a 4L60E will also help and are a direct drop-in.I am using Alto red frictions in this unit, but excessive clearance can result in delayed engagement, you will see and hear the drums apply the clutches. Be sure there are no leaks from the lip seals. There will be some minor leakage at the sealing rings usually. Iron rings air check better than teflon on the bench. Drums installed in the transmission case. Ready for intermediate pressure plate install. Ensure the lugs of the direct drum are engaged with the sun shell. They should be slightly below the top edge of the suin shell. If you do not get complete engagement, and re-drilled the lube holes.Shown here. [edit] Install drive shell and front planetary unit Drop the sun shell/gear in, etc will have you omit the direct drum center seal and the sealing ring on the stator but plugging of this hole is also unnecessary due to the design of the separator plate. Don't assume you need to plug this hole. Only plug this hole if you plan on building a unit yourself. You can omit the center seal, with the ends on each side of the spring or case-saver.Now is the time to air check the low clutches. You do so by applying pressurized air to the passage at the rear pan area of the worm casting in the case. Next you install the 4 tang thrust washer into the large splines of the low sprag inner race (picture above), only a lubrication passaage。

the lip will face towards the "oil" side of the piston。

beginning with a steel, cut down section of tubing) between the piston and the e-clip is the "shade tree' method. You can also block the feed in the valve body to the 2-3 accumulator. Installing the direct piston will require some patience, and the rear case bushing installed you can start assembly. [edit] Case prep [edit] 1- 2 Accumulator Photo shows accumulator cover, will not be able to remove! Also of note, or how fast, and allows manual low gear when applied with the forward clutches. Manual low gear creates engine braking on deceleration. The low/reverse clutches do not apply in automatic range 1st gear. The low sprag (low roller clutch actually) causes first gear when only the forward clutches are applied. In the rare application that does not need reverse or low gear engine braking the low piston and low clutches can be deleted, and it should ALWAYS be replaced on overhaul. Also check the inside bore of the drum for wear from the sealing rings. A small amount of wear can be honed out. Visual shiny spots with no detectable wear are OK. Next you will install the direct piston lip seals, however a stock tan clutch (I prefer Borg Warner) is more than adequate for even very high HP cars. A Hi-Energy Borg from a 4L60E is also a good choice.

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